LiquidWood®

Structural Epoxy Wood Hardener and Consolidant for Deteriorated Wood.

Uses: LiquidWood® penetrates wood fibers and structurally hardens decayed and weathered wood permanently.  Use indoors and outdoors and on both structural and decorative wood. Use to harden and restore wood on buildings, windows, columns, beams, decks, boats, furniture, artwork, and any wooden architectural elements. Use also as a primer or thinner for WoodEpox®.

Features & Benefits: LiquidWood epoxy wood consolidant is easy to use and produces permanent results. Its low viscosity allows it to penetrate deep into the wood and saturate deteriorated wood fibers prior to hardening.  This eliminates the need to remove the areas that can be effectively consolidated. With LiquidWood, deteriorated wood that could crumble under finger pressure can be restored to structural, high-strength, durable, weather and insect-resistant wood.  The absence of water and solvents eliminates shrinkage and enhances adhesion.  It is low odor and produces virtually zero VOCs, making it safe and hazard-free in any environment. Treated wood will harden within hours, and like new wood, can easily be sawed, planed, drilled, nailed, painted, routed, and sanded.

Technical Characteristics: 1:1 mixing ratio. Combine equal parts A and B until fully blended. Pot life: approximately 30 minutes. Hardens within hours depending on temperature and other environmental factors.  100% epoxy solids.  Waterproof. Coverage: 231 cubic inches per gallon.  Effective coverage varies based on the porosity of the wood.  Translucent amber color liquid resin. Apply by brushing, pouring, or injecting directly onto dry, bare wood.  Application temperature range: 50-90° F.  100% compatible with WoodEpox.

Cold weather formulation is available for application temperatures as low as 35° F.

This product is GREENGUARD® Certified, meaning that it has been 3rd party verified to contain virtually no VOC’s (volatile organic compounds).  

(12 customer reviews)
DescriptionUnitQtyPrice
12 Fluid Ounce
$27.75
2 Pint
$55.75
2 Quart
$93.90
2 Gallon
$239.90
10 Gallon
$995.10

TYPICAL TEST RESULTS

Kg/cm2 Mpa Psi
Compressive Strength 366 36 5210
Elongation 84%
Flexural Strength 63 6.2 900
Hardness, Shore D 42
Tensile Strength 103 10.1 1460

Wood Restoration with LiquidWood and WoodEpox

Learn the Basics - Mixing LiquidWood

Customer Questions & Answers

    Can you use this on laminate - I want to stain it
  1. Q Can you use this on laminate - I want to stain it answer now
    Asked by Margie Conger on April 4, 2024 10:33 am
    Answered by the admin

    LiquidWood should only be used on rotted wood. It does not accept a stain.

  2. I am useless as far as working with anything needing some knowledge. We have a soft northern pine floor, with the pine being very soft. After sanding the floor, I would like to make the wood "harder". Does your product make the soft wood harder so it does not dent as easily? Can I can then stain the wood? Or, do I stain first and then apply a hardner. Thank you, Tom McGowan
  3. Q I am useless as far as working with anything needing some knowledge. We have a soft northern pine...... Read more answer now
    Asked by Thomas B. McGowan on March 21, 2024 1:53 pm
    Answered by the admin

    LiquidWood should only be used on rotted wood. It is not to be used as a coating or sealant.

  4. Is this compatible with pigment powders?
  5. Q Is this compatible with pigment powders? answer now
    Asked by Jake on February 29, 2024 5:58 pm
    Answered by the admin

    LiquidWood does not accept a pigment.

  6. I see that you should remove loose debris… I have some partially rotted studs on the gable end of the house. Should I remove the rotten portions? Some portions will come off if pulled by hand , how loose should it be to remove it as I assume I should not aggressively remove it because this should be the substrate for the epoxy to harden. Given it is structural and load bearing would this be an acceptable application? Could it be used on a bottom plate as well?
  7. Q I see that you should remove loose debris… I have some partially rotted studs on the gable end of...... Read more answer now
    Asked by Dylan on February 28, 2024 11:00 am
    Answered by the admin

    You should remove any loose dirt and debri. LiquidWood is structurally sound and load baring.

  8. Did the liquid wood formulation change? The most recent batch I purchased, Part B has a slight ammonia odor to it while previous batches did not (that I recall). Also when cured, the liquid wood has a smell similar to burnt rayon, while previous batches had a light roasted nut smell.
  9. Q Did the liquid wood formulation change? The most recent batch I purchased, Part B has a slight am...... Read more answer now
    Asked by Robert-Alan on February 17, 2024 8:40 pm
    Answered by the admin

    No. The formula has not changed.

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Customer Reviews

  1. Donald Chester

    A hint I might add: After making a small repair using a disposable brush, instead of throwing away the brush, I seal it into an air-tight zip-lock bag and place in the freezer. Even months later, I can take out the brush, let it come to ambient temperature, and it will be perfectly usable. This saves using a new disposable brush each time when I may be applying a small amount every day or two while working on a project, and I don’t end up having to throw away a bag full of hardened disposable brushes.

  2. Donald Chester

    I have used Liquid Wood for years to maintain our 80+ y.o. old buildings. It is the most satisfactory repair product I have yet to try; it does not shrink, and is the only product I have used for both exterior and interior repairs, in which the hardened filler did not eventually separate from surrounding wood, inviting more water ingress and further rot. Repairs I made on wood siding and window sills 20 years ago still appear intact, and hold paint equally well to untreated wood.

    I prefer to make my own filler by mixing fine sawdust with Liquid Wood, to WoodEpox. For one reason, after sanding over the repair, it becomes almost indistinguishable from the original wood, other than being a little darker in colour, whereas WoodEpox is stark white making the repair highly visible, particularly on surfaces like varnished flooring and trim.

    Although the instructions say not to use it as a sealer, I find that it works well for sealing the ends of sawed pieces, which may wick up moisture and cause soft spots to eventually appear as far as several inches from the end. I use it to seal questionable pieces of old wood, even when I am not sure if it has started to decay. From my experience, if the piece of bare wood soaks up slightly thinned Liquid Wood, it serves a useful purpose. If it does not soak into the wood, it would be a waste of the product to apply it.

    One word of caution: be sure to use protective gloves, and clean up per instructions. Otherwise, it may cause a rash similar to poison ivy, and subsequently, increased allergic sensitivity to the uncured product. I discovered that the hard way.

  3. ABATRON

    Thanks for the feedback. We do suggest a longer induction period in order to avoid the tacky-blushing. 5-10 minutes is recommended. Humidity and moisture in the wood can affect the tackiness as well. Using an external heat source can speed up the cure significantly as well.

  4. William H

    The product does what says, but takes a L-O-N-G time fully cure. Both times that I have used it, after 12 hours at ambient temperature (60-80 deg F) the surface is still very tacky. Now, I will say that after I mixed it well a good full minute, I let it sit for the mix to go from foamy to de-air and become clear. Maybe waiting longer would reduce the tackiness, but it took me about 15 minutes to fully apply with a coarse haired brush, so I was confident that the length of time and the constant applying should have given me the required time to not experience tackiness.

    Product does what is says as far as binding wood and protecting it. But, if it that time sensitive regarding tackiness, I may look elsewhere for the next time.

  5. ABATRON

    You can thin LiquidWood with Abosolv, Acetone, Xylene or Alcohol.

  6. Er

    I have used it on an old log homes very satisfied with this product I was wondering how to make it thinner so it would penetrate the entire surface and get into the small cracks

  7. Cheri

    I’ve used Abatron products in many areas as we’ve slowly restored our circa 1900 home. It’s easy to use, works perfectly, and has saved us a lot of money and hard work because we’ve restored the original wood parts – rather than replacing them.

  8. Donald Chester

    I have used LiquidWood for years in restoration projects in and around my circa 1865 farmhouse and circa 1930 outbuilding. I prefer to make my own filler by mixing LiquidWood with fine sawdust, since after sanding, the colour comes out close to that of the surrounding wood even before finishing; sometimes it is hard to see where the repair was made, for example, where I repaired a burnt spot in my oak hardwood floor from an errant ember from the wood stove. I have used this method outdoors to repair rotted window sills and siding. It doesn’t shrink and after more than a decade, no cracks have appeared between filler and sound wood. Filled spots take paint just like original wood.

  9. ABATRON

    It’s hard to say how much LiquidWood will absorb into the rotted wood because we don’t know the extent of the rot. You should keep brushing it on and/or injecting it until the product pools on the top, then you know you’ve applied enough product.

  10. Ed

    what is the ration of liquid wood to the beam one would be working with?

  11. ABATRON

    Yes, you can drill holes and inject the LiquidWood.

  12. Chiya

    I have soft spots in my floorboards throughout my custom renovated home. The top layer of teak flooring is in great shape. Can I somehow inject the liquid hardener into the soft spots to fix the rotted boards below?

  13. Anthony Smiley

    I use the Wood sealer 1st . Then I used the wood filler. Both products were easy to work with. I was repairing a rotted 2 by 12 joist. The wood sealer made the would extremely hard again. I then use the would filler to fill in the large Spaces. The A and B wood filler was like playing with clay . Very easy to use. I will give it a five star after I sand and shape the wood. Ps I have pictures if you would like to see them. Let me know.

  14. Laurel

    none better!

  15. eugene weddle

    good

  16. James Listman

    This stuff is a mandatory for anyone with an older home trying to maintain old sills etc. Making sure the old wood is dry is critical. It sucks right in and truly does make the original better!

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